Kitchen projects rarely go wrong during construction. They go wrong during planning, and the failure mode is almost always the same: a decision made late that invalidates a decision made early. Appliances chosen after cabinets are ordered. A hood selected after the duct route is closed up. A sink chosen after the counter is templated.
The sequence below exists to prevent that. It is ordered by dependency rather than by importance, which means some genuinely small decisions come very early because much larger ones rest on them.
The order to decide things in
- Establish the budget range and the contingency. Before design. A ten to fifteen percent contingency on an older house is realistic rather than pessimistic.
- Decide whether walls move. This is structural and it governs everything else, including whether you need engineering and a longer permit review.
- Fix the layout and the appliance positions. Not the models yet, the positions. Where the sink, range, refrigerator and dishwasher sit determines the plumbing, gas and electrical rough-in.
- Select the actual appliances. Before cabinets are ordered, without exception. Cabinet dimensions are built around specific appliance measurements.
- Confirm the hood and its duct route. A hood that cannot be vented where the range is going forces a layout change. Settle it now.
- Choose cabinetry and order it. Six to ten week lead times, longer for custom. Ordering starts the clock on the whole project.
- Select the countertop material. Before demolition, because slab selection and lead time matter, though templating happens after cabinets are installed.
- Choose flooring, tile, lighting and hardware. These can run in parallel with the cabinet lead time.
- File the permit. In parallel with cabinet lead time, not after it.
- Plan the temporary kitchen. Refrigerator, microwave, kettle and a sink somewhere. You will be using it for two to three months.
Mistakes we see most often
- Starting demolition before the cabinets are ordered and a delivery date is confirmed. The house then sits without a kitchen for the lead time.
- Choosing appliances last. It is the single most common cause of modified or reordered cabinetry.
- Leaving the hood to the installer. Duct routing is a design decision.
- No contingency in an older house. Something will be found behind the plaster.
What this means in the Capital Region
For older Capital Region homes there is one extra planning item worth adding near the front of the list: have the electrical panel assessed. A modern kitchen needs several dedicated circuits, and a 100 amp panel in a house from the 1950s frequently cannot carry them. Finding that out at rough-in adds cost and time; finding it out during planning simply adds a line to the budget.
The second local item is the permit timeline, which varies meaningfully between municipalities in this region. Filing early and in parallel with the cabinet lead time rather than after it is the difference between the permit being a non-event and being the thing everyone is waiting on.
Want this priced for your own home? Jeffrey Mason will walk the project and give you a free written estimate. No obligation, no sales rep. Call (518) 308-6427.
Frequently asked questions
How far ahead should I start planning?
Four to eight weeks of planning before anything is ordered, then six to ten weeks of cabinet lead time, then nine to fifteen weeks on site. Around six months from first conversation to finished kitchen.
What decision do people most often get wrong?
Choosing appliances after ordering cabinets. Cabinet dimensions are built around specific appliance measurements, and a late change means modified or reordered cabinetry.
How much contingency should I hold?
Ten percent in a house built after about 1970, fifteen percent in an older one. In older Capital Region housing something is usually found behind the plaster.
When should I file the permit?
While the cabinets are being built, not after they arrive. It costs nothing to run the two in parallel and it removes the permit from the critical path.
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